Vaping is the use of a vaping device! There are many vaping devices, but “vaping” is the term that unites them all (and it’s even in the dictionary!).
All vaping devices work in the same fundamental way:A battery powers a coil heating element that turns a liquid solution known as e-liquid into an aerosol.
Different devices apply these principals in differing ways – and it’s surprising just how many variants have been created from such a simple concept!
Vaping provides you with the sensations, rituals and nicotine that smoking provides, but is not smoking. In fact, from a flavor perspective, we believe vaping is now more enjoyable and satisfying than smoking ever was.
Unfortunately we’re not allowed to discuss the safety of vaping devices due to federal restrictions. We’re very sorry about this, but you can do plenty of independent research yourself on the internet.
This is a very tricky question, but our advice is that at the minimum, you should purchase a Joyetech AIO Starter Kit or equivalent.
These devices offer the best balance between satisfaction and price, and should be the entry point for anyone wishing to try vaping.
The short answer here is no. Sadly, many Cities and Counties have chosen to prohibit vaping in public places, shoehorning vaping into smokefree legislation. Thankfully, vaping is still permitted in public places in the majority of the US, but this is continuously under threat.
Nevertheless, it’s wise not to assume that you can vape anywhere just because it’s not illegal. Premises owners are entitled to prohibit vaping on their property, and many do.
In all cases, please be respectful of others when vaping indoors. The media spent many years influencing American’s ill opinion of vaping, and despite what you may find out when independently researching, people around you might still feel as if they are being exposed to the equivelent of cigarette smoke.
If you’re an adult smoker then the answer is yes. Non-smokers should not take up nicotine in any form. The addictiveness of nicotine as provided by vaping devices is as yet not fully understood, but it should be assumed that it does have the potential to cause dependence.
PG (propylene glycol) and VG (vegetable glyerine, or glycerol) are ingredients in e-liquid which create the vapor. Both are widely used in a variety of products for human consumption. PG is associated with a stronger “throat hit” but with less visible vapor, whereas VG has a sweetish taste and produces a much more visible vapor. Some vapers find PG irritates their throat and lungs and choose to use VG based e-liquids instead. Some e-liquids contain a blend of both ingredients to balance out the characteristics of each.
Again, there is no one-size fits all answer here, so the best thing you can do is to try out a few e-liquids and see which one suits you. Interestingly, don’t assume that you need an authentic tobacco flavor. There are some good ones out there, but we find that the vast majority of vapers end up choosing a flavor other than tobacco, and this happens very quickly if they try a few different ones to begin with. In terms of PG/VG, you’ll have to try for yourself and decide what you like.
This is, in a way, the trickiest question of all because ultimately it’s a personal preference. Some vapers prefer a stronger nicotine eliquid but on a lower powered device, whereas most prefer less nicotine but on a more powerful device. And some people are somewhere in the middle! Also, vapers differ in how much nicotine they need, and how much they want to vape overall. So, if you want to vape less, use a stronger e-liquid, if you find you’re getting too much nicotine from the amount you like to vape, move to a less strong liquid.
Yes, absolutely. Although how much you will save depends on several factors:
How much cigarettes or tobacco costs where you live.
The amount you spend on devices (this becomes a hobby for many!)
That said, with a good setup you should be able to save considerable amounts of money, and the more focused on saving money by vaping you are, the more you will save.
There are some very good tobacco liquids out there, but none of them are identical to smoking. Remember that vaping is fundamentally not smoking, and much of the flavor and sensation from smoking comes from the very fact that it is smoke which is being inhaled.
Most vapers find that the absence of smoke is actually a big plus point, and that they transition quickly away from wanting a smoke-like flavor.
There is a huge range of vaping devices available, and they come in all shapes and sizes. When choosing your first device you will be making your choice based on looks and price/performance. It’s hard to give generic advice. We put together some bundles for you to make an easier choice based on price and quality:
Next Level Bundles
Top Shelf Bundles
However, do make sure you consider this: You will always want to have a device charged up and on hand. The biggest mistake new vapers make is forgetting that you need time to charge up a vape once it’s gone flat, and this can be frustrating. Keep a backup!
Like any business, look for trust signals. We tend to recommend to avoid “cigalike” products – the ones that look like cigarettes – simply because in our experience they are unsatisfying and underperforming. If you’re after simplicity, there’s new products which may fit the bill.
We are prevented from talking about this by federal regulations which came into force in 2016
It is impossible to say whether YOU can quit smoking by vaping. The only thing we can say with certainty is that there are many people who are known to have quit smoking by substituting with vaping.
Whether you will be one of those people depends on a few factors, such as how motivated you are, how much effort you make finding a device that works for you, and how much you find you enjoy vaping to being with. The only way to find out is to try!
Yes, always. We have been in business since 2012 and have always purchased directly from manufacturers and from reputable distributors.
Batteries sold in-store are 99%charged. However, batteries must be shipped with a 30% charge for your safety. It is recommended that you charge your batteries before use.
Troubleshooting & Tips
Atomizers have a built in wire-coil, similar to one found in a light bulb, as well as a wicking material to provide the coil with a constant supply of liquid to vaporize. An unpleasant burnt taste is always a sign that there is a lack of e-liquid in the wick that the coil. This can be true even if your cartridge or tank is full of e-liquid.
There are several reasons for this:
- The vaporizer is using too high of a power setting
- The vaporizer is being used too frequently between hits or the hits are too long of duration
- The liquid has too thick (too high of a VG content) or less likely, possibly way too thin (too high of a PG content)
- The airflow is too restricted by the airflow ring on the tank being too closed off, or the user is not hitting the vaporizer with enough force (airflow helps cool the coil down)
- The wicking material may be too burnt from failure to “prime” the coil when it was brand new, and a new coil is required for this situation
Solution: “Prime” the coil again. This involves two parts.
- Drip one or two drops inside the coil, but making sure the cotton within absorbs it (more drops if it is a brand new coil).
- Rotate the airflow ring at the base of the tank (many sub-ohm tanks have this feature) so as to close off the airflow. Proceed to suck on the vaporizer without powering the coil for a few seconds. Repeat this action five or so times. Be sure to rotate the airflow ring back to it’s open position after doing so.
- Try hitting your vaporizer (using the power again) for two seconds with medium force to check if the coil has returned back to normal. If the burnt taste comes back, repeat the steps mentioned above. If you cannot get rid of the taste, see the above causes to eliminate some of the possibilities.
Note: If you try again with a new coil and return back to this issue, the most likely cause is either your liquid, the way you are hitting the vaporizer or the actual hardware itself. There are many tanks and coils on the market that simply are not good quality. We do recommend visiting a local shop to diagnose the issue if you are having trouble. Someone more experienced will have mostly likely come across the issue and will be helpful in solving it.
If you removed the atomizer/tank from your vaporizer and found a small amount of liquid in the contact, this is perfectly normal. You can and probably should keep this contact as clean as possible, preferably about once a day wipe it out with a Q-Tip.
If your tank is leaking juice, it is time to troubleshoot. You do not want juice getting into the battery compartment or worse, the circuitry.
To find the culprit, the first thing you should do is take the tank off of your device.
Let’s say your Kanger Subtank is leaking. The first thing to do is to take the base off and check if the coil is loose.
If you can tighten the coil down further, there is your problem.
The o-ring should be watertight to prevent juice leaking through the base and out of the airflow valve.
If the coil is nice and seated, the next step is to see for a hairline fracture in the glass. This can be a pain to see, but in the right light it is visible.
Take a look at the o-rings for the tank section as well. See if one is missing or folded over itself, thereby allowing juice seepage.
On a Subtank, the glass tank section is out in the open and can crack.
Other tanks like the Aspire Triton and Horizon Phantom feature a “shell” to protect the Pyrex glass. Sometimes people find a way to break these tanks, too, though.
If there is no hairline fracture in the glass, you can be missing an o-ring in the coil-thread area. This can sometimes happen, manufacturers have accidentally also sent coils without o-rings many times.
Compare the coil you are using to the other coil your tank came with to see if there is a missing o-ring. If you bought an extra 5-pack of coils, check those too.
Finally, if nothing else helps, you can start to blame the base of the atomizer.
If the coil head can’t thread on easy, the threads may be gone. If that is the case, juice may be escaping via the threads down through the airflow inlet.
“Atomizer Low” flashes on the screen of your regulated mod, and you wonder, how could this be?
Before we answer this question, you should keep something in mind. Even though the worldwide vaping community is hyper-connected, we have yet to define standards. Just like in the heyday of any industry, different manufacturers don’t share anything globally. Not yet, anyway.
Unfortunately, “Atomizer Low” can mean different things depending on the mod you use. Usually, it stems from the resistance of your coils. The mod reads that the coils are a lower resistance than the lowest allowed resistance of your device.
Let’s say you have an Eleaf iStick 30w mod, and you try to use a Horizon Arctic tank on it.
The Arctic includes a 0.2 ohm coil, which is too low for your 30w iStick. This mod can only read resistance down to 0.4 ohms.
This answer is not an end-all. “Atomizer Low” can also mean there is a short in the coil, a poor resistance reading, loosely seated coil, or a faulty 510 connection on the device.
The quickest fix for this error is to make sure your atomizer is compatible with your mod.
Most current devices on the market will have resistance limitations listed in the user manual, make sure you double check the specs.
With the iStick 30w used in this example, you will need to use coils that are 0.4 ohms or higher.
Variations in pre-built coils that can differ up to the tenths of an ohm, make sure your coils are not cutting it too close to the mod’s limit.
If your coil resistance is close to your mods lowest limit, pop in a spare coil into the tank and try to fire up the mod.
This is a general-purpose warning like “Atomizer Low.” Oftentimes, “Check Atomizer” indicates the 510 connection on your mod doesn’t register your tank. Some devices spit this error out when there is a short or a bad resistance reading/loose coil.
If your mod does not see your atomizer, it can’t determine the resistance, and it can’t send power to the coils.
Sometimes, out of nowhere, a device can deliver this error and leave you stranded without a vape.
Suppose you are at work, and just got out of a tense meeting. You are about to take a vape and your IPV4 says “Check Atomizer.”
Without any tools, the only thing you can do is remove the tank and clean the 510 area, both on the tank and the mod.
If there is an adjustable 510 pin on the atomizer, make sure that it isn’t missing.
When you re-seat the tank or clearomizer, try to thread it only until you start to feel a little resistance.
This means your tank is making contact with the mod. Take great care not to over-tighten your tank when you put it back on.
Over time, doing so will damage the 510 connection on the mod and/or internal wiring as well. This is especially the case for spring-loaded 510 pins.
Suppose that didn’t help… Well, then you have to try to troubleshoot.
Is it the IPV4 or the tank?
Try another known working tank on the IPV4, to see if it still outputs the error. If it works fine, you have a problem with the tank.
If not, there is an internal error with the device, send it out for service!
The resistance you see on your ohm meter or mod is actually a calculation, it is not a perfect metric.
Suppose you have a pre-built 0.5 ohm coil, and you are using a regulated mod. If the mod reads resistance down to tenths only (0.1), you will see a calculation of 0.5 ohms.
Most pre-built coils have a variation of 0.1 +/- from being handmade. That means a 5-pack of 0.5 ohm coils can actually include a 0.6 ohm and a 0.4 ohm in there, too.
If you see your resistance reading jump by a tenth or two, it is not cause for alarm.
When your resistance reading jumps from 0.5 ohms to 1.5 or 2.5 ohms, you know you have a problem.
When the mod thinks you have a high resistance coil, it will output much more voltage.
This will burn the coil outright, since the true resistance is actually 0.5 ohms, not 2.5 ohms.
Troubleshooting is the best way to figure this problem out. The first thing to do is to figure out whether it is the atomizer or the mod.
Let’s say it looks like a Subtank may be at fault. Try that Subtank on a different regulated mod to see if it also jumps around.
If it is the tank, generally replacing the coil will fix this issue. If that still doesn’t work, it is the Subtank base that needs changing.
If it is not the atomizer, it is the mod. Let’s say an eVic VT looks like it is to blame. Take the hypothetical Subtank off, and put on a different atomizer.
Unless you are an expert coil builder, I would suggest using another pre-built coil tank.
Oftentimes, your RDA deck built out by hand won’t get as stable a reading as a manufactured coil head in a tank.
If the mod’s resistance reading is still jumping around, you found the culprit. Send it off to service!
The most important connection between your atomizer and your mod is the 510 connection. Both your tank and your device have one.
Many devices have self-leveling 510 connectors, but some have adjustable ones. This means you need a screwdriver to adjust the 510 pin up or down, to meet your atomizer.
If you have an adjustable 510 on your atomizer, you may need to adjust that as well, to meet the 510 on the mod.
If you thread your tank onto your device and do not feel any resistance, one of the 510 pins are not touching the other.
Adjust one or the other, and thread the tank back on. Once you feel resistance, tighten a tad more and stop.
No need to over-tighten the tank onto the mod, otherwise you can damage the 510 connection.
The vast majority of regulated devices show you a battery life indicator. On some mods, you see the battery level indicator drop while vaping.
This means when you hit the firing button, the battery discharges, and it looks empty on the screen.
This is called “battery sag.” What is happening is that the indicator shows how much voltage is coming out of the battery. At full power, the sag is substantial, but at lower power it may show less sag.
When you release the firing button, the battery readout goes back to normal. Only while you are discharging the cell will the battery indicator flash empty.
While this is technically not user-error and is completely out of a user’s control, it is good practice to charge your mod or batteries before there is no charge remaining at all.
Over-discharging cells is a common way to prematurely drain your batteries before their time is due.
Mechanical mods do not tell you when your battery depletes. On a regulated box mod, when the battery gets down to 3.4V nominal charge remaining, it is time to charge it.
Stop and charge the mod or batteries at 10-20% charge remaining to get the most longevity out of your battery cells.